Christmas in Germany, part II

Fritz and I took a weekend and visited the Christmas markets in Heidelberg and Ruedesheim am Rhein, both about an hour from Frankfurt by train.   These were still quite popular, but no where as overcrowded as Frankfurt.

Heidelberg itself is well worth seeing - it's got a castle, lovely old town and a scenic bridge over the river.   Another tip - we couldn't find a non-touristy, yet authentic enough restaurant with free tables, so we ate at the cafeteria in the department store.  Good value for money and a great view of the city.

One thing I love in German Christmas markets are the kitch mugs.  When you buy mulled wine or hot cocoa, you put down a deposit on the mug (rather than environmentally unfriendly paper cups!) and you can also keep them as souvenirs.

Rudesheim am Rhein is an adorable village in Germany's best known wine-producing region.  We visited the market, then took a hike up to the top of the hill.

Dogs are widely excepted in restaurants in Germany, but some go the extra mile (or kilometre).  The sign here says that dogs are heartily welcome.

Christmas in Germany, part I

My first German textbook was entitled "Neue Freunde" - or "New Friends" - and Fritz and I certainly made quite a few new friends in Germany.  Germany is very dog-friendly and we met other dog-walkers and dog-lovers.

I was in Frankfurt for work right before Christmas.  The city has has some great parks, including a lovely one right along the River Main.

We also visited the Frankfurt Christmas Market.  This is one of Germany's larger ones and it was packed!  If you're bringing a dog I would suggest going in the morning on a weekday.  We went on a Friday night and although we had fun, it was a bit difficult navigating all the people.  We had better luck in the markets in Heidelberg and Ruedesheim am Rhein.

Stockholm in Winter

In Stockholm dogs can almost always sit at outdoor restaurants and cafes, even if they aren't allowed indoors.  But some days are not good for sitting outside.

Fortunately, finding dog-friendly places inside is not too difficult.  The 'Dog-friendly Stockholm' site is invaluable (in Swedish).   Within the city there are dog-specific cafes, regular cafes and a limited number of restaurants that allow dogs.  Usually department stores and shopping malls also have restaurants and cafes where dogs are allowed.  We like going to Nordiska Kompaniet in the city centre, which you can see in the background behind the Christmas market in Kungsträgården.

That said, a lot of places still do have year-round outdoor seating, with blankets and heaters.  I saw people sitting at a cafe on the day this was taken.  So, if you really want to...

Dalarna - September 2012

At the end of September 2012, Fritz and I went up to Dalarna, in the middle of Sweden.  It's a beautiful bit of countryside, known for its horses, history, skiing, forests and lakes - like Siljan below:

We also went mushroom picking in the forest and came back with 1.3kg of chanterelles!

Helsinki - September 2012

Helsinki is windy.

I was only in Helsinki for about 25 hours for two meetings but it was a learning experience for several reasons......

Firstly, do your homework on 'dog friendly' places.  Like Stockholm, Finland has some great outdoorsy places, but slightly draconian laws about dogs near food.  We got kicked out of an outdoor cafe.  And out of the restaurant in the airport (although the staff very kindly served us outside in the outer-bar area).  I have never been kicked out of an outdoor cafe or an airport restaurant!!!!  I talked to our hotel concierge about this and he explained that the regulations are very strict on this, although there are moves to have it changed.  If I had done my homework and read these sites on 'pet-friendly Finland' beforehand, it might have been a smoother trip:

https://de.foursquare.com/user/1212139/list/dog-friendly-cafes-and-restaurants

http://www.petguidefinland.com/111

Secondly, taking the ferry to Finland was an option I explored (Viking Line takes dogs), but I didn't have a place to put him whilst I was at my meeting.  And in any case I ended up requesting a late check out....

...so, thirdly, consider researching pet baby-sitters.

Finally, do you homework with entry requirements!  There is freedom of movement  (of people) within the Schengen Zone, but customs officials should still check dogs and cats.  Fortunately (in this case) this does not always happen and there wasn't even a customs official on the desk when we landed in Helsinki.   I had sort of assumed that entry requirements within Schengen were the same and that all I needed was his passport with proof of rabies vaccination.  Actually, dogs need to be treated for tapeworm same as for entry into the UK.  I found this out after I got home and was researching....also, Norway has also introduced tapeworm treatment for movement between Norway and Sweden.  However - unlike entry into Finland or the UK which requires a veterinarian's stamp, you can administer the treatment yourself and sign a form 'on the honour system.'

The point is - check at least a week before you travel on the 'official' site.  The Norwegian Ministry of Foreign Affairs site still states there are no restrictions between Norway and Sweden but the Food Safety Authority has the updated information.  Similarly, About.com is incorrectly states that no tapeworm treatment is needed between Sweden and Finland, but the their Food Safety Authority (sort of) clearly states that this is required.



   

Stockholm Archipelago

The Stockholm Archipelago (skärgård in Swedish), is comprised of over 30,000 islands and extends from central Stockholm out into the Baltic.  We went out to the island of Finhamn for some exploring.

The boat ride takes about 3 hours, but worth it for the views as it navigates through the island channels. Dogs have to stay on the bottom deck but that isn't a problem and all the boats have a snack bar and comfy seats.

Once we got to Finnhamn we did some hiking.  I have a pack from ToughTraveler that I have mentioned before, but at this point Fritz has so much energy he is good to go for a day hike.

General rules in the archipelago are that dogs are allowed off leash from end of August until around end of May but must be on-leash in the summer and in nature reserves.  All of Finnhamn is a nature reserve so I was being a bit naughty here.  Finnhamn is also home to a great restaurant and an organic farm.

Swedes love taking dogs on adventures.  Just remember a life vest!

Practical points - Dogs on trains

Fritz likes to ride on trains.

Each country's rail service is a bit different when it comes to trains.  In Sweden, dogs must be pre-booked as there is one carriage designated for dogs.  In the UK dogs can ride anywhere (although if the dog is taking up a seat or you have multiple dogs you may be charged extra).  In Switzerland, tiny dogs are free, whilst small and large dogs need a 1/2 price ticket.   Apparently dogs in Belgium cost up €2,20 but I have never been charged.  Similarly, pets on French rail cost €6 if in a bag and the cost of a 1/2 price ticket if on your lap/nearby you but I have never been charged either.

Generally assume dogs are allowed - except for the Eurostar which is absurdly dog-unfriendly in contrast to all the other rail services.  Still a good idea to check the websites before you travel for more updated information.

Swiss rail
SJ (Sweden)
Deutsche Bahn
National Rail (UK)
Belgian Rail
French Rail